Casa dos Artesans – Ribeira Sacra
Holiday cottage in rural Galicia (sleeps 2 - 5). Experience spectacular scenery, rural life, wine, art and Spanish craft. Learn basketry or textile weaving on holiday or visit the nearby craft workshops. "Lovely furnishings, colours ... and comfy beds" (client comment).
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August is nearly over in north Spain and despite the continuing heat it is difficult not to start to think about autumn. Many of our neighbours will be thinking about the grape harvest here in Cristosende September. But in the Cristosende craft workshops – despite their idyllically tranquil position at the end of the hamlet – we are looking ahead to several busy months ahead with Spanish craft courses, craft projects and visits programmed right up to the end of November. In this post you can see a selection of photos taken in the craft workshops this past month, newly-made textiles, as well as what´s on for autumn here in the craft studios in the Ribeira Sacra.
LOOKING BACK OVER AUGUST 2010.
Many thanks to those of you who came to the workshops, bought or commissioned work, or came for a guided workshop tour. Of course, we welcome guided visits and inquiries during the rest of the year, but please phone us first to arrange a time that is suitable for us and for you. In the meantime, here are some photos of some of the events here this August -
Textile Design and Analysis Course in August 2010
Well done to Begoña and Rosa - you worked hard to understand how to interpret and use the graphic representation of woven textiles in this intensive 10 hour course. Hopefully you will now be able to use books with pattern drafts with more confidence. Mastering weaving drafts does require a bit of practice but I always work on the draft on paper before setting up a loom with a new threading. Really, for anyone who wants to deepen their knowledge of woven textiles and start designing original work for themselves this knowledge is really vital.
Anna Champeney Estudio Textil textiles selected for 2 international textile exhibitions
The bi-ennial exhibition of textile accessories organized by the Asociación de Creadores Textiles de Madrid, which opens in Costa Rica in September will include two pieces of work designed and woven at Anna Champeney Estudio Textil in Ourense, north Spain. The work will also be on exhibition in 2011 in Madrid (on the grapevine we hear that the venue is going to be Madrid´s Textile Museum - but it´s best to visit the www.creadorestexiles.org website nearer the time. Anna says “for anyone interested in exhibiting their textile work, Suave is useful exhibition to submit work to, as it has an international jury so you can be sure that if your work is selected it will be exhibited alongside quality work because an international panel of judges decide whose work is accepted. As with most exhibition selection, the quality of your photographs is very important- as they will be the visual basis on which selection is made in 2012, the next date for the exhibition. Be aware that in Spain it is not un-common for exhibitions organisers to charge exhibitors a fee to cover exhibition costs, not just post and packing”.
Natural Dyeing course for Beginners August 2010.
Madder, logwood and onion were the dyes of choice during during the fairly intensive 2-day Introductory course with Marga, Lourdes, Tania and Eva. The deep purples and blues from logwood were gorgeous, and Tania managed to dye a single skein with no fewer than 5 colours. Working together we managed to achieve no fewer than 34 different tones from just 4 dye plants, including Marga´s experiment with Maria Luisa (lemon verbena), growing at the edge of the outdoor patio where we did some of the dyeing. And yes, it does act as a natural dye although we haven´t tried it out for fastness. If you would like to do a natural dyeing course with us in 2011 then contact us or re-visit the blog around christmas time when our 2011 course programme will be up.


Summer Craft Activies for Kids
 Inés, Sofia and Elena from Alberguería (Luinta), were just some of the kids who came with their parents on the guided workshop visit around the craft workshops this August – and their visit included trying out a table loom for themselves. Well done girls – you did very well – and see you again soon for a willow fish making course or some felt ball making in the not-too-distant future.
LOOKING FORWARD TO AUTUMN IN THE RIBEIRA SACRA
As well as hosting a masterclass course with Danish weaver, Lotte Dalgaard in September and working on some autumn designs and exciting new kit projects - to be unveiled soon - we are offering some new courses in the autumn-winter period. We will also be working on our programme for 2011 so if you would like to see a particular course offered at a particular time in 2011 now is the time to get in touch and suggest it to us.
Just off the loom - Zingy man´s scarf with natural dyes
The zingy, spicy colour combination of this one-of-a-kind man´s scarf in 100% natural wool is particularly pleasing. The scarf would make an ideal christmas present for a special friend, partner or family member. It measures 27cm x 170cm (excluding fringes) and has been woven in warm waffle weave. As with all the textiles from AC Textile Studio, the beauty of the colours is due to the use of natural dyes which are extracted at the studio itself. Hand-wash at 30ºC. The scarf is a one-of-a-kind, (although another similar, shorter, women´s version is currently also available) and costs 75€. Inquire about purchasing this scarf.
Mushroom basket course 21 – 22 September 2010
If you have been wanting to try basketry for some time now this is an ideal opportunity to make your first basket, all ready for picking wild mushrooms later in the autumn. Some regions of Spain have already banned the use of plastic bags for collecting mushrooms and in fact baskets have always been a better option – allowing the mushroom spores to fall through the basket structure to seed next year´s mushroom harvest. Collecting mushrooms in a basket also means that they don´t get squashed. Let´s see if in Galicia we can promote better mushroom-picking habits with the adoption of baskets too!
Complete Weaving Course for Beginners 11 – 15 October 2010
In this intensive 5-day course you will learn to prepare a Louet table loom from scratch and weave samples and a finished piece of work. This course is ideal for beginners and for those with limited experience or confidence who wish to work on a loom project from scratch and prepare the loom.
Spain´s December Bank Holiday 2010 – Short breaks in Galicia with creative craft courses and special offers
Treat yourself this Puente de la Constitución to a short creative craft break in Galicia. Our rustic cottage, awarded themact quality mark, with its two spacious double rooms and central heating, is available for rent and the craft workshops are just 30 metres away.
 Casa dos Artesans holiday cottage is ideal for 2 - 5 people looking for a traffic and tv-free holiday in a peaceful village setting with stunning natural scenery in north Spain. Casa dos Artesans specialises in holiday craft activities both for adults and children, in fabric weaving, basketry and natural dyeing, all taught by professionals.
Here we offer you two holiday activities – an introduction to loom weaving and a beginners´ basketry course. So you can try both our crafts over the holiday period. You will be surprised at what you can make - with no previous experience – and if you sign up to both courses we´ll give you a discount of 20€. Contact us for more details.
Spanish basket maker Lluis Grau has just spent the whole morning heating wild cherry wood poles over an open fire in the darkness of his traditional bodega or stone hut, in the Ribeira Sacra, rural Ourense, north Spain. After heating them he splits them lengthwise by hand, following the natural grain of the wood to form splints. Four neatly tied bundles of splints of wood are the result, each classified according to length. Lluis will then plane the splits using a two-handled knife – a drawknife – into smooth, even strips which are then woven together to form baskets. Lluis is one of the few traditional basketmakers in the whole of Galicia, north Spain, who still have the necessary knowledge and skills to make these baskets.
The four bundles of wood will be enough to make around a dozen baskets for Lluis´ annual exhibition held in August in his workshop. Lluis´ production each year is limited and as well as selling direct from his workshops he is often invited to exhibit in international exhibitions. At the moment one of his pieces is on show in the prestigious Joahannes Larsen Museet in Denmark, in the “Kirsebaer-Kurv 2010” (Cherry Basket) exhibition.
Just across the way from where Lluis is working Anna, his partner, a hand-weaver, has finished weaving a length of cloth and has cut it from the loom. The resulting roll is satisfyingly heavy and includes enough glossy linen fabric to make several glossy linen babycapes as well as decorative stripey linen cloth made from a completely different grade of linen yarn which is very rustic in feel. To make a woven textile on a handloom today requires a minimum of ten separate processes and just setting up the loom can take a week´s work. Anna´s weave workshop is the only one in the whole of the Ribeira Sacra area of Galicia, and Lluis is one of the few basketmakers left too. Both represent traditions of making objects by hand which are centuries´ old. Although none have younger successors both have taught many pupils, both at their workshops and internationally and are committed to teaching and researching, to pass on their skills, as well as producing work for sale.
Factfile
Summer Exhibition and Open Workshops 2010 – Anna and Lluis both open their workshops to the public during the month of August - Opening Hours and Map / How to Get There - when they stage their annual selling exhibition of craftwork. Both makers also accept commissions and sales by email. Entry to the exhibition and sale area is free and guided tours with the makers are also available every day until 45 minutes before closing time. 2.50€ per person (Tel. 669 600 620). The rest of the year the workshops are closed to the public except by prior appointment, for guided visits (Tel. 669 600 620).
Basketry and Weaving Holidays and Tuition – Anna Champeney Estudio Textil and Lluis Grau, Basketmaker, offer personalized tuition as well as a programme of basketry and weaving courses during the year.
Where to Stay – Accommodation in the Ribeira Sacra – The nearest place to stay is Casa dos Artesans, Lluis and Anna´s rustic holiday cottage, decorated with their own baskets and hand-loomed textiles. The cottage has two double bedrooms.
Ribeira Sacra handwoven textile and basketry workshops are worth a visit so after you have “done” the boat trip and visited the monasteries, follow our route around the picturesque village of Cristosende for a truly different experience of the Ribeira Sacra. A visit to this scenic hamlet in August not only means you can visit the open village craft studios to see and buy hand-made textiles and rare baskets and have a guided visit. In the same village you can also visit the family-run bodega, go for a shady stroll with some stunning scenery (print out the information below) and then finish up in the Cristosende manor house bar for a drink, ice-cream or even a meal (reserve beforehand). There are few such pretty villages in the locality of such a small size which offer you so many possibilities. Let us know how you get on by adding a comment! Map of How to Get to Cristosende
About Cristosende (15 minutes from Castro Caldelas, overlooking the River Sil)
Cristosende is arguably one of the prettiest in the Ribeira Sacra (Ourense), with many tiny stone bodegas still used by local people to make wine and stunning views directly over the River Sil Canyon with its steeply-terraced, hand-worked, vineyards which produce the local mencia and godello wines. The village is not an artificial tourist village, however, but a real working village, with all the small businesses run by local families. It experiences a brief buzz during the annual fiestas, at the beginning of August, and for the rest of the year it is a haven of peace and quiet, with fewer than 40 all-year round inhabitants.
Suggestions for things to do in Cristosende in the Riberia Sacra this August
Activity 1 - Visit to the only weaving and basketry workshops in the whole of the Ribeira Sacra – Anna Champeney Textile Studio and Lluis Grau Basketry
Opening Hours -1 – 31 August 2010 – Tuesday – Sunday – 10.30 – 1.30pm / 6.00 – 8.30pm.
- Free access to shop and exhibition areas.
- Guided visits during opening hours (up to 45 minutes before closing time) on request. (Cost: 2,5€ per individual, group tarifs according to numbers)
Rest of the Year – closed to the public except for guided tours / visits by appointment (T. +34 669 600 620)
Products and Description:
- Unusual hand-woven traditional designs and techniques and range of own-label products.
- Rare Spanish baskets with local designs from the Ribeira Sacra, Galicia and the north of Spain.
- Opportunity for Guided Workshop Tours (August)
About Weaving and Basket Making in the Ribeira Sacra – Weaving and basketry were both traditional Spanish crafts that were part of everyday life in the Ribeira Sacra in Galicia just 50 years ago, with hundreds of weavers and basketmakers at work. Anna Champeney and Lluis Grau keep the tradicions alive and develop them further in their small but beautifully-restored craft workshops. The workshops have information panels and offer guided tours on request. More about Anna Champeney Textile Studio in Cristosende, About Lluis Grau Basketmaker
Activity 2 - Walking route in and around Cristosende (A Teixeira) (about 30 minutes)
A relaxing stroll which is a circular route along peaceful country lanes, some of which is through beautifully shady sweet chestnut groves. Print this route out as it is not signposted. It is very easy to follow and has wonderful views over the village, the vineyards and the River Sil itself. Walking is, perhaps, the best way to experience the Ribeira Sacra, and a refreshing change to car-based tourism.
Starting point: Communal public wash-place (locals still wash clothes and rugs in this roofed water-tank) in the centre of the village (a roofed water tank near the signpost to the Anna Champeney Textile Workshop). You can drink the spring water from the more modern of two water fountains here.
- Walk out of the village along the country lane, past the village recycling point, towards A Teixeira. Pretty views of Cristosende.
- Shortly after the road curves to the left and begins to climb you take a steep asphalted country lane on the right. This takes you by the hamlet of O Barrio and past Casa Pital with its majestic cypress trees.
- Continue walking straight on through shady sweet chestnut groves until you come to a –T-junction, where you will see a village spring set into a rock on the right. This is drinkable.
- Then turn right, down hairpin bends leading back into Cristosende. Enjoy the wonderful views, this time over the River Sil Canyon itself.
- This takes you back into the village of Cristosende. Take the first right turn into the village to pass by the village winery, Viña Pederneira. Continue on down through the village to the wash-place.
Activity 3: Viña Pederneira (D.O. Ribeira Sacra) – The village winery
- Opening hours – whenever a member of the family is at home (although avoid siesta time!), rather than working in the vineyards. If the bodega door is not open then don´t be afraid to shout “Hola” loudly.
- Products: Gift packs of 3 bottles of mencia and godello wine. Wine boxes also available. Ask about local aguardiente (the delicious local spirit made from distilling grapeskins, flavoured with coffee or herbs)
- Description: The small family-run winery or bodega in Cristosende makes wine exclusively from its own mencia and godello grapes. Although small bodegas like Viña Perderneira don´t have the public profile of the larger, more commercial wineries you will see publicised in tourist brochures and in large road signs, they represent the truly authentic face of wine-making tradition of the Ribeira Sacra. Again, unlike some of the other wineries which apparently buy up grapes from other regions, all the wine from Viña Perderneira has been made from local vineyards in and around Crisotsende.
Activity 4 – Eating and Drinking in Cristosende
After your visit to the craft workshops you can enjoy a drink or a meal (with prior reservation – (T. +34 988 20 75 29) at the attractive village manor house, the Casa Grande. The walled courtyard is refreshingly cool in summer. Another alternative is to bring your own picnic and sit out at one of the village merenderos (picnic areas), some of which have drinking fountains. Please remember to take your rubbish with you and leave the marble tables clean (Cristosende villagers like to play cards there on summer afternoons).
Staying in Cristosende - Tourist Accommodation in Cristosende
The village has several options for staying longer including craft holidays, should you wish to return another time:
Casa dos Artesans holiday cottage (shown in photo) is ideal if you are looking for privacy, value-for-money, and space of your own. Advance bookings only. 2 spacious bedrooms. Sleeps 2 – 5 people. (585€ per week + 13.50€ for extra single bed for 5th person). (T. +34 669 600 620) Casa dos Artesans Holiday Cottage
Craft Holidays - Anna Champeney, textile weaver, and Lluis Grau, basket weaver, offer residential craft holidays and courses of up to 3 weeks duration so you can combine a stay in the Ribeira Sacra with learning how to make your own hand-woven textile or basket.
- The Casa Grande is the village manor house and offers spacious double rooms including one with disabled access, with breakfast and meals available at the restaurant (meals reserved in advance – (T. +34 988 20 75 29)
Village Life in Cristosende: Background
As you can see, Cristosende is a dynamic little village (especially given its tiny population of fewer than 40 all-year round inhabitants), in having a number of local, family-run businesses – craft, wine and tourist accommodation. Many villagers make their own wine and cultivate their own vegetable gardens and thanks to them and the small businesses, other newcomers are now being attracted to the village both to live and to spend holidays. As a result quite a number of village houses and bodegas have been sympathetically-restored over the last 8 years, leaving the structure of the original buildings untouched, with the authentic local stone walls visible, traditional roof tiles and painted wooden windows and balconies. This in itself is making Cristosende an ever-more attractive village, both to live in and to visit. We hope you enjoy your visit to Cristosende this August. Please ensure that Cristosende villagers continue to enjoy having visitors in future – Leave any rubbish in the bins provided , keep your dogs on leads, and please don´t enter private gardens, vineyards and buildings.
Around Cristosende – Other Places of Interest
- Castro Caldelas – with its historic castle and shops and bars (15 minutes by car) and Centro Comarcal (oppisite the castle) Tourist Information Office
- Santa Cristina Monastery (Parada do Sil)– One of the Romanesque monasteries which have given the area its name, Ribeira Sacra (Sacred Riverside) – (30 minutes by car)
- Vilariñofrío Roman Bridge (Paraa do Sil) – (about 10 – 15 minutes by car)
- Niñodaguia Pottery – Cerámica Agustín – One of the last traditional potters. The honey-coloured pottery here is not to be missed. (25 minutes by car situated on the main road to between Castro Caldelas and Ourense)
- Monforte de Lemos – the main town of the Ribeira Sacra (35 minutes by car)
- Ourense City – provincial capital with its old quarter full of tapas bars, and hot springs
- Gundivós Pottery – The unusual black pottery of the region probably has very ancient origins and you won´t see anything like it anwhere else. There are two potteries making Gundivós ceramics, both near Doade (Lugo province). (About 50 minutes by car)
- Allariz – superbly-restored historic town (1 hour by car) with a range of craft shops, local product shops and Galician designer clothes shops
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Holiday Craft Tuition in North Spain Learn the creative art of hand-weaving, natural dyeing and basketry in Galicia!
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