Exposición textil 2-29 de marzo 2022 Sant Gregori (Gironés)

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Textiles naturales > lotte dalgaard

Thread Magic (Mágia con hilos) – Tejidos corrugados, tejidos plisados y tejidos de texturas en telar – Nuevo libro por Lotte Dalgaard y Paulette Adam

¿Cómo tejer tejidos en telar con texturas especiales? Hay varias técnicas pero la de “Collapse Weave” (el término en inglés), el resultado de usar hilos que se encogen al lavarse, es impresionante.

Hace unos días recibí un paquete de amiga y profesora mía, la maestra tejedora danesa, Lotte Dalgaard. Era uno de los primeros ejemplares de “Thread Magic”, el nuevo libro (en inglés) sobre la técnica de tejer con texturas increibles. El factor común en ésta técnica es el uso de hilos especiales que se encogen al lavar, después de tejer.

Lotte es una de las pioneras de esta técnica. “Thread Magic” es el segundo libro escrita por ella, junto con Paulette Adam, y traducido del danés al inglés. Durante muchos años ha colaborado con diferentes diseñadores de moda para sacar colecciones de piezas únicas.

La verdad es que nunca en mi vida he visto tejidos – y prendas – hechos a mano tan exquisitos y únicos.

Lotte es tejedora y también profesora textil muy experimentada. Vino a España hace más de 10 años para iniciar tejedoras españolas a la técnica (gracias a financiación de FCGAD). Gracias a lo que aprendí con Lotte diseñaba y elaboraba varias colecciones de foulards de “collapse weave” en Anna Champeney Estudio Textil.

Foulard de “Collapse Weave” diseñada y tejida en Anna Champeney Studio

El libro “Thread Magic” te aporta muchísima información técnica valiosa sobre los hilos y como usarlos para diferentes efectos. También hay proyectos para copiar o usar como base para explorar más la técnica.

Aprenderás mucho sobre la torsión de los hilos, el vapor como técnica de fijación. Y aprenderás como combinar estos hilos que se encogen al lavar con otros hilos que son “pasivos” (no se cambian al lavar), para crear tejidos increibles – para foulards, ropa y tejidos incluso para interiores.

Thread Magic por Lotte Dalgaard y Paulette Adam, libro sobre tejeduría en telar (texturas especiales)

 

Lista de proveedores de hilos especiales de calidad para tejidos en telar con texturas

Es muy importante – dado las dificultades que tejedores artesanales tenemos para encontrar hilos especiales o de gran calidad – una lista de proveedores de hilos especiales para tejer tejidos con texturas.

En la lista salen tiendas online en Dinanarca, Reino Unido, Suiza, Icelandia, EEUU y Japón.

!Gracias Lotte, por un regalo tan especial – por transmitir y compartir el conocimiento y experiencia que tú tienes con tanta generosidad!

Anna Champeney, 20 10 20

Lotte Dalgaard and Ann Schmidt: New collaborative exhibition of innovative handwoven weave design and fashion launches in Denmark (2013)

 

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September 2013

These are some hot-off-the press images from the new exhibition by Danish hand-weave designer Lotte Dalgaard and innovative fashion designer Ann Schmidt which launched just a few weeks ago in Denmark.

Each garment in the show is a one-off piece and the result of a painstaking process of creation. Garments are shown next to the work of a well-known Danish photographer, whose images were chosen or specially taken to complement the textiles.

The ideas for Lotte and Ann´s distinctive one-off dresses, tops and jackets often emerge from previous projects and through the act of talking ideas through. Each garment is a design project in itself and none are destined for quantity production. These are truly one-of-a-kind art pieces.

The process of working these ideas up into finished pieces involves lengthy and complex processes including making maquettes (in paper or fabric), sampling on the loom, modelling fabrics on a mannekin, making sketches and of course the creation of the complex weave draft which Lotte will use to weave every centimetre of the fabric in a specific way. Shibori techniques and pressure steaming is sometimes used – depending on the fabric and the garmen – to fix the fabrics into permanent hard-edged pleats which can run vertically along the warp of the fabric or on the bias of the fabric, forming more gentle pleats.

The idea for the finished garment may be sketched out on paper for Lotte to translate onto the loom and weave into precisely considered cloth. Instead of a uniform rectangular piece of fabric the length may include sections which are wider than others or with areas of different textures, areas woven as partial tubes, or areas which combine double fabrics which feature special joins which sometimes become fin-like elements of the design. These features which are central to the identity of these garments – can only be developed through a close process of collaboration between fabric weaver/designerand the maker of the garments.

Interestingly, the challenge of designing garments “on the loom” has fascinated hand-weavers for centuries and has always been considered a kind of measurement of the weaver´s skill. But perhaps, as weave is now understood by fewer and fewer people generally the accomplishment and skill is not as easily appreciated.

Collaborations like this between hand-weaver/designers like Lotte and Ann Schmidt are very rare indeed and depend not only on the right personal chemistry between the two but a shared passion and willingness to be open to and learn from the other – over a long period of time. As such this type of collaboration truly enriches each designer-maker – in a creative rather than economic sense (as with all creative innovation and development work the sheer investment in time is hard to quantify in mere economic terms) – the divisions between the different disciplines of fashion design and hand-woven fabric design become far smaller. The result is something truly original and innovative which it is impossible to imitate.

It is the intimate nature of the collaboration which results in such extraordinary garments which are closer to fine art or sculpture than simply fashion.

Each section of the woven fabric is sometimes precisely worked out to correspond to a particular piece of the garment design.

Sometimes Ann sews the garments up by hand – not because of a particular devotion to the hand-made but simply of a recognition that it is the best way to achieve a particular effect.

The attention to detail in these garments is phenomenal. An example of this is how Lotte will also sometimes incorporate manual manipulation techniques when weaving for special effects. Only weavers will appreciate the technical mastery involved but the degree of sophistication in the fabric itself can be appreciated by anyone with aesthetic sensitivity.

The Japanese-inspired jacket in the large photograph, for example, features white threads which “float” free of the main fabric in non-repeating sequences. Each floating thread is placed by Lotte by hand during the weave process. The effect is delicate and unusual and would be impossible to achieve using industrial weaving methods. The two different patterns on the garment are achieved on the loom simultaneously, thanks to the technique of weaving two layers of fabric at the same time on the loom – one which features the simpler, darker stripe pattern and the other featuring the floats. The double-layers are joined, again on the loom – not using a sewing machine afterwards , which produce an additional effect. To preserve the delicate dashed effect of the selvedge Ann Schmidt sewed some of the panels of fabric together by hand to mimic the same effect and achieve a uniform aesthetic.

Congratulations to Lotte and Ann, not only for the wonderful work, but for providing valuable role models for both the worlds of fashion and handwoven textile design.

Weaving Textiles That Shape Themselves by Ann Richards – Exhibition and book launch in London May 2012

Book review – Weaving Textiles That Shape Themselves (Ann Richards) reviewed by Anna Champeney Estudio Textil (Galicia, Spain). Weave design, collapse weave, How to weave with active and stable yarns. Exhibition of collapse fabric textiles at Handweavers´ Studio (London) – May 2012 featuring work by Lotte Dalgaard, Anna Champeney, Ann Richards and other international weavers. Design details of “Minstrel” scarf, pleated angora, wool and nylon yarn by textile designer and weaver Anna Champeney, exhibitor, which can be seen in the exhibition 18 May – 13 June 2012.

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