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Textiles naturales > Blog > 2014 > November

Anuscha´s scarf – on just 4 shafts. Textile analysis by Anna Champeney.

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Plainweave and warp floats are the key to this simple but ingenious scarf design analysed by Anna Champeney Estudio Textil in north Spain.

Ever seen a woven textile that intrigues you and you’d like to know how it was woven?  This scarf, worn by a pupil at a scarf course recently, aroused Anna’s curiosity and so here’s her interpretation.  It´s simple … when you know how!

“I think this scarf can be woven on just 4 shafts, threaded as a straight draw.  If you have an eight shaft loom you have more possibilities with a block threading but you can also thread with a straight draw.

The opaque horizontal banded sections in the photo are woven as plainweave and the section with the “fringes” are woven by weaving the following pick lifts –

Lifts for the “fringe” sections

  • Pick 1 – 124 (or 124 568 on 8 shafts)
  • Pick 2 – 134 (or 134 578 on 8 shafts)

The fringe section lifts create very long warp-wise floats which stretch from one band of plainweave all the way to the next.  The floats are then cut with scissors in groups to create the chequerboard design.  My guess is that when the fabric is washed (“wet-finished”) for the first time the invidual float threads group and “stick” together, with the cut floats twizzling around each other and curling up.  Not all threads would necessarily behave in this way though.  Other types of yarn could well give different results.

Here you can see my representation of the scarf generated on my computer as a Weavepoint weave pattern – with white warp ends creating warpwise floats in block A and plainweave being woven on block A.

anuschas scarf in weavepoint showing floats and pw

It´s really great when you have enough knowledge about weaving to begin to see woven textiles were constructed and  figure out how they woven.  It´s not that you want to copy someone elses design but you can adopt the same principles and incorporate them into a design of your own.  “Reading” a fabric feels like communicating with other weavers from around the world.

As I said, I use Weavepoint software for generating cloth drafts.  If you´re interested in buying Weavepoint weave design software from us or coming for some one-to-one tuition on using Weavepoint or have a short introduction to woven textile design on holiday in north Spain with us then contact us here by email.

If you have more than 4 shafts and want to play around with the design – incorporating colour-and-weave effects it could be really fun too. Or you can cut the floats in different ways to modify the design.

Curso de bufandas en telar en Anna Champeney Estudio Textil 31 de octubre – 2 de noviembre 2014

 

 

buf 24 Annuschka threading her loom 600 pix OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA Han sido 3 días muy intensivos para las alumnas en el curso de bufandas aqui en Galicia.

Después de preparar los telares y realizar muestrarios les tocó tejer las bufandas.

Fuera de Casa dos Artesans, donde se imparte el curso, el cielo se pone como de pelicula, iluminando las nubes con una luminosidad magia.

Con el cambio del tiempo y también de la hora se acerca el invierno;  Las calles del pueblo están perfumadas con el humo de las estufas de leña.

Ahora, el regreso a Madrid  – y  a estrenar los foulards.

!Enhorabuena!

Próximos cursos:  2 – 5 de diciembre 2014 – Curso de bufandas (4 días) / Curso de repaso (2 días) (Practicas en la preparación de un telar Louet de sobremesa)

anuschka y silvia en curso de bufandas buf 24 800 pix OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

buf 24 anuschka y su foulard de lana con tintes naturales 800 pix
casa dos artesans al final del curso de bufandas nov 2014